Thursday, May 17, 2012

Tranquebar - The Land of the Singing Waves


"And in 1620, the Danish set up an establishment in Tranquebar."

It was during a fascinating history class in college when I first heard of the place. It had an unusual ring to it. The name stuck on.

In December 2004 when the tsunami hit Tamil Nadu, Tranquebar was in the news for the widespread destruction that had occurred. It piqued my interest once again. There was a mysterious aura about the place and I knew that I had to make a trip there sometime soon.

What I found amusing was that hardly anybody seemed to know about this heritage village and there was scarce information available in travel guides, books and... hold your breath... on the internet. I had to stall my plans for the next 8 years.

April 2012. The folks and I decided to venture into unknown territory. We combed the internet for any kind of  lead that would help us plan a holiday and we struck gold. After making reservations at the hotel, we loaded the car with the dogs, suitcases, supplies and we were off.

The 11 hour drive via Chidambaram ultimately led us to an old gateway with a board next to it that said "Welcome to Tharagambadi".

The stickiness in the air, the familiar smell of the sea, the almost ghostly mood...we had definitely arrived.

The first thing that struck me about Tranquebar was its unconsumed flavour. Apart from the local population, there were hardly any people around. The narrow, unpaved pathways, the picturesque rocky shores, the quaint houses with antique lamp posts intact...  We had entered a timeless era which was charmingly simple yet enchanting.





A quick and satisfying dinner at the hotel, a lazy stroll by the sea and we were ready to call it a day.

The morning started with us thrashing in the waves. In terms of cleanliness, the beach leaves a lot to be desired but its unpopulated nature almost makes up. The dogs got a bout of uninterrupted swimming while we enjoyed the breeze and hum of a very composed sea. We wolfed down our breakfast and headed out for a heritage walk with a local guide.

If the thought of derelict buildings, classic architecture, rustic sights and bits and pieces of history enthrall you, then Tranquebar is the place to be. From an old, wearied fort, a couple of museums, cemeteries and a reconstructed church to the home of the first Tamil printing press, a temple washed away by the ocean and bungalows with stories galore, the guide offered us a glimpse of the Danish life and religion. Repeated failures in business dealings forced the Danes to leave in 1845 after selling their possessions to the British but they succeeded in leaving a significant mark on this sleepy village.  Our last stop was the Tranquebar Cultural Resource Centre where Upasana (the NGO) works extensively to uplift the women of the village who lost their families to the giant, ominous wave.

      











We spent the evening in the sea, soaking up a gentler form of the sun and playing "Fetch" with two over enthusiastic Labs. We came back to the rooms and lay on the wooden chairs; allowing the beauteous landscape to cast its spell on us.  After a relaxed dinner at the Bungalow On the Beach, we ambled around the erstwhile Danish parade ground and retired for the night. The next morning we packed our stuff and started our drive back to Bangalore.

When people ask me what I did in Tranquebar, I don't have a specific answer. I didn't do the regular holiday-by-the-beach routine but still there was lots that I absorbed. Some places display a keen sense of aesthetics at every turn and the more you delve in them, the more covetous you become. The tiled roofs, the tiny stone maps, the eerie silence after sunset, the grey shade of the water,  the moonlit sky, the feeling of anonymity... my senses were rightly stimulated and I couldn't get enough of all that and more. Another visit is definitely on the cards whenever I feel like being enveloped by nothing-ness and recharging my batteries.

"Glory is fleeting, but obscurity is forever." - Napolean Bonaparte


Ageless, beguiling, dreamy... Tranquebar is a well kept secret and something tells me that it wishes to stay that way. 









Places to Stay:


The Bungalow on the Beach
Nayak House
Tamil Nadu Guest House


We picked Nayak House as we had our pets with us and thus had to book all three rooms. The place is beautifully done up with extremely clean rooms and loos. The doors open out to a sprawling lawn. Perfect setting for your morning chai, watching the sun go down and unwinding.


Food:


The Bungalow on the Beach offers a simple, tasty affair (Veg and Non Veg). The courteous staff ensures that you enjoy your meals there. With a day's notice, the Craft Cafe at TCRC can organise a complete South Indian meal. (Veg.)



2 comments:

  1. Thank you so much Niru for taking me through this beautiful place. I was almost into an imaginary trip.
    You really must keep writing and traveling of course!
    Love.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Wow Soni an amazing write up...kudos :)

    ReplyDelete